All About Lasts


At Allen Edmonds we construct our shoes on a wide variety of lasts. Lasts are foot-shaped forms that provide shoemakers with the basis for building a shoe. By selecting shoes manufactured on the last that most resembles the contours of your feet, you will achieve a superior fit and enhance the comfort of your shoes.

At Allen Edmonds our shoes are constructed over each last using three different methods.

Welted Construction

A welt is a strip of leather sewn around the upper and insole of the shoe to which the outsole is then attached. Apart from its durability, one advantage of stitching the components together using a welt is that it conserves the leather’s natural flexibility and allows it to breathe. A welted construction also allows for the shoes to be recrafted and therefore extends the life of the shoe.

Known more simply as the 5 last, the 65 last is our most popular, classic fitting last. The longest in length of all of our lasts; best for a long, narrow look; and often the best fit for those with high arches. Our best-selling Park Avenue is made on the 65 last.

Known more simply as the 3 last, the 73 last is designed for classic American designs. The 73 last has the fullest fit measurement in the ball of the foot with a tapered toe and more room across the forefoot.

Known more simply as the 9 last, the 79 last has a tapered back portion which allows for lower, shorter vamp designs creating a low fit across the top of the foot.

Known more simply as the 7 last, the 97 last is the best fit for the average foot. The 97 last is one of Allen Edmonds early lasts, and has a soft, slightly pointed toe. It lays flatter in the toe area for a classic American look.

Known more simply as the 8 last, the 108 last has an elongated forepart with a tapered and flatter toe. It is similar to the 222 last with a longer, narrower fit and a rounded toe.

The 201 last is the newest last introduction from the Product Development team. This last has a higher cone, providing more room for a higher instep and contemporary shelf appeal. The toe down has fuller forefoot width for more comfort and slight chisel to the toe profile, providing a sleek looking aesthetic which complements our iconic 65 last.

Known more simply as the 2 last, the 222 last has an elongated toe with a slightly higher instep and a more narrow fit in the forefoot creating a sleek silhouette and rounded European look.

The 444 last fits much like the 511g last. It features a soft rounded square toe for comfortable all-day wear and an easy, professional look.

Known more simply as the 1 last, this last is similar to the 7 last from heel to the ball of the foot, yet with a more rounded, fuller fitting toe. The 511 last is used in many of our boots because of the added room in the toe box.

511 last with extra room allowed for an orthotic. The 511G last is also used for many of the Honors Collection styles and features a rounded toe for comfortable all-day wear and easy pairing with heavier, more casual athletic socks.

This is our newest of the Allen Edmonds lasts. The 606 last has a broad, flat toe providing a roomier forepart. The instep transition and cone rise is farther back than a typical Allen Edmonds last.

The 678 last is our 234 last, but with a fuller fit and additional depth to accommodate an Allen Edmonds orthotic insole.

The 1757 last has a noticeably wider forepart for a fuller, more youthful appearance. The toe down view has a rounded profile for a fuller shape similar to the B34. A rounded toe combined with a sleek profile makes the 1757 perfect for boots and other casual silhouettes. It's an easy fitting last with the ideal shape for those who are looking for a more versatile dress-casual look.

1943 is a new last in the Refined Dress category. A soft square toe shape is paired with a sculpted, longer forepart and higher cone than our traditional Timeless Classic lasts. This addition offers an updated & contemporary fashion sense to the Allen Edmonds collection.

2042 is a new slip-on last inspiring a fresh aesthetic in our Refined Dress category. It is a sleeker, more fashion-forward look than our classic slip-ons. This last has a soft rounded toe, full forepart and tapered back section to promote an enhanced fit for our slip-on styles.

The 2321 last is similar to the 1757 last, designed with a slightly more narrow toe used primarily for dress-casual shoes. It has a wider appearance in the forepart for a relaxed attitude. This new last offers a desirable, versatile look that you can dress up or down.

The B34 last was developed as a true 'boot' last, with a wider forefoot for more room up front and a higher toe box for added volume and comfort from a profile perspective.

The JN9 was created for the Jack Nicklaus Collection. The last has a modern, squarer toe and broader toe box to allow for the use of an orthotic. The extra room also lets your foot breathe during a long day on the golf course.

Handsewn Construction

In this process the upper is created by fitting a single piece of leather around the underside of the last and then stitched to the plug by hand, using needles and waxed thread. A leather midsole and sole are then attached by machine stitching to produce a remarkably comfortable and flexible shoe. True handsewn construction allows the shoes to be recrafted and therefore extends the life of the shoe.

Semi-round toe handsewn last with a slightly shorter vamp; fuller across the ball of the foot.

Slightly square toe handsewn last with an elongated forepart; used for ae by Allen Edmonds drivers collection.

Shorter forepart and round toe with a tighter instep providing a snug fit.

A classic, great fitting handsewn last with a sleek but rounded toe and steeper arch; roomier across the ball of the foot with a nice, rounded shape.

A rounded, fuller toe handsewn last. 1/8 inch longer than the 114 last to accommodate a fuller, foam sock liner and heel-to-toe padding.

Cemented Construction

The sole is attached directly to the upper using a special adhesive and without the use of a welt. Cement construction is a superior method for attaching the rubber soles used in many casual shoes. Shoes made using the cement construction method cannot be recrafted.

A last designed for a lifestyle favorite, the classic tennis shoe. This last offers the look of traditional cup sole sneakers with a casual, rounded toe. Cool enough for the weekends, but sharp enough to add some originality to your dress-casual looks.

NOTE: Some shoes combine handsewn construction on the uppers with cemented soles. Examples of these are the Boulder, Interstate 90 and Daytona Driving Mocs. Even though they are handsewn due to the glued on sole they cannot be recrafted.

Haven't found the information you are looking for? Give us a call, we would be more than happy to answer any questions you may have. You may contact us by Email or by phone 1-800-235-2348 (USA) or 1-262-235-6512 (outside of the USA). If at all possible, we recommend coming in for a professional fitting. Click here to find the nearest Allen Edmonds company store or dealer.