Glossary of Terms

A style originated in the 1700s by the Algonquin Indian tribe, featuring a moccasin front and stitching that extends to the bottom of the toe. Also known as a split toe.

A short strip of leather that connects the quarters down the back of the shoe.

A front-laced shoe in which the quarters meet and the vamp is stitched at the front of the throat. Bal is short for "Balmoral", the Scottish castle where this style was first introduced.

A style where the quarters flap open at the vamp, giving extra room at the throat and instep in fitting. The opposite of the balmoral style, which has a sewn, closed vamp.

A shoe designed to be worn on a boat deck, featuring an anti-slip rubber sole. Generally considered to be a moccasin-type shoe, with two or three eyelets and side lacing.

Any type of footwear that extends over the ankle.

The part of the upper covering the toe.

The opposite of the oxford style, a derby style shoe consists of open lacing which flaps open at the vamp.

A shoe usually made from patent leather in a plain-toe style.

A piece of leather trimming fitted into or on top of the rear quarters.

A piece of woven, elastic fabric used to connect the sides of a slip-on shoe, enhancing the fit.

A decorative fringed section of leather, often found on the vamp area of loafers.

The part of an oxford shoe into which eyelets and laces are inserted and used to adjust the fit.

The decorative perforations found on the toe of some styles.

A layer of the sole between the outsole (the part that touches the ground) and the insole (the part that touches the foot).

A type of shoe that has a seam around the forefront of the vamp.

A style that fastens with a strap and buckle instead of laces to hold the foot in place.

The bottom surface of a shoe that comes in contact with the ground.

A low-cut, laced shoe of balmoral design.

"Perforations," small holes punched into shoe uppers to form some kind of design for decorative effect.

Decorative edging in a saw-toothed design used on the uppers of some footwear.

A style that uses a single, continuous piece of leather for the vamp.

The part of the shoe that begins at the laces and passes beneath the ankle bone and around the heel. Or, in high-top shoes, passes around the heel and over the ankle.

A leather strip that starts from both sides of the sole and goes over the instep.

A select leather made from the inner layer of horsehide with incredible softness and durability. Possesses a very fine grain, giving it a unique luster and long-wearing characteristics.

A style designed without laces, meant to slip on the foot.

A low-heeled, oxford, semi-brogue or full brogue constructed from two contrasting colors.

A style that features two pieces of leather joined together at the vamp and welt of the shoe; see Algonquin toe.

A soft leather with a napped surface.

A decorative roll of bound leather that is secured on one end and loose at the other, used as an ornament on some footwear.

The top area of the vamp just at the start of the instep rise. The throatline is the top edge of the throat.

The part of the heel that touches the ground. Often made of rubber or a combination of leather and rubber.

Various assembled parts of shoe tops including foxing, quarters, vamp, toe cap, backstay, tongue and saddle.

The portion covering the instep of the shoe and sometimes extending over the toe.

A long strip of leather that secures the sole to the upper leather.

A style where the vamp and toe are joined together with a decorative piece of leather shaped like a wing.

A leather formed by braiding or weaving different pieces together.