All About Lasts

At Allen Edmonds, we construct shoes on a wide variety of Last. Lasts are foot-shaped forms that provide shoemakers with a foundation for building a shoe. By selecting shoes manufactured on the Last that most resembles the contours and nuances of your feet, you can enjoy a superior fit while enhancing the performance and comfort of your shoes. Our shoes are constructed over each Last using three different methods, welted, handsewn and cemented construction.

Welted Construction

A welt is a strip of leather sewn around the upper and insole of the shoe to which the outsole is then attached. Apart from its durability, one advantage of stitching the components together using a welt is that it conserves the leather’s natural flexibility and allows it to breathe. A welted construction also allows for the shoes to be recrafted and therefore extends the life of the shoe.

42 Last

The 42 Last combines the excellent fitting heel characteristics of the 65 last with a broad, almond shaped modern toe shape. This last is generous fitting from the ball through the toe area. This last has a sleek profile through the arch and instep.

42N Last

This is a variation on the 42 last. All characteristics are the same but there is a 3mm footbed allowance for the removable LightForm footbed featured in the Nomad collection. This would be classified as a “relaxed fit” in our newer terminology.

64 Last

This is an adaptation from the famous 65 last. While the 65 last is our most popular, Classic fitting last, the 64 is slightly roomier across the ball and forepart of the foot providing a more “relaxed fit.” This last keeps all of the same defining characteristics of the 65, but is slightly longer for an updated and sophisticated spin on the classic.

65 Last

Known more simply as the 5 last, the 65 last is our most popular, classic fitting last. The longest in length of all of our lasts; best for a long, narrow look; and often the best fit for those with high arches. Our best-selling Park Avenue is made on the 65 last.

79 Last

Known more simply as the 9 last, the 79 last has a tapered back portion which allows for lower, shorter vamp designs creating a low fit across the top of the foot.

97 Last

Known more simply as the 7 last, the 97 last is the best fit for the average foot. The 97 last is one of Allen Edmonds early lasts, and has a soft, slightly pointed toe. It lays flatter in the toe area for a classic American look.

108 Last

Known more simply as the 8 last, the 108 last has an elongated forepart with a tapered and flatter toe. It is similar to the 222 last with a longer, narrower fit and a rounded toe.

201 Last

The 201 last is the newest last introduction from the Product Development team. This last has a higher cone, providing more room for a higher instep and contemporary shelf appeal. The toe down has fuller forefoot width for more comfort and slight chisel to the toe profile, providing a sleek looking aesthetic which complements our iconic 65 last.

511 Last

Known more simply as the 1 last, this last is similar to the 7 last from heel to the ball of the foot, yet with a more rounded, fuller fitting toe. The 511 last is used in many of our boots because of the added room in the toe box.

511G Last

511 last with extra room allowed for an orthotic. The 511G last is also used for many of the Honors Collection styles and features a rounded toe for comfortable all-day wear and easy pairing with heavier, more casual athletic socks.

606 Last

This is our newest of the Allen Edmonds lasts. The 606 last has a broad, flat toe providing a roomier forepart. The instep transition and cone rise is farther back than a typical Allen Edmonds last.

943B Last

943B has the same look, feel, and fit as the 1943 last but with a raised cone to accommodate higher boot heights.

1757 Last

The 1757 last has a noticeably wider forepart for a fuller, more youthful appearance. The toe down view has a rounded profile for a fuller shape similar to the B34. A rounded toe combined with a sleek profile makes the 1757 perfect for boots and other casual silhouettes. It's an easy fitting last with the ideal shape for those who are looking for a more versatile dress-casual look.

1943 Last

1943 is a new last in the Refined Dress category. A soft square toe shape is paired with a sculpted, longer forepart and higher cone than our traditional Timeless Classic lasts. This addition offers an updated & contemporary fashion sense to the Allen Edmonds collection.

2042 Last

2042 is a new slip-on last inspiring a fresh aesthetic in our Refined Dress category. It is a sleeker, more fashion-forward look than our classic slip-ons. This last has a soft rounded toe, full forepart and tapered back section to promote an enhanced fit for our slip-on styles.

2321 Last

The 2321 last is similar to the 1757 last, designed with a slightly more narrow toe used primarily for dress-casual shoes. It has a wider appearance in the forepart for a relaxed attitude. This new last offers a desirable, versatile look that you can dress up or down.

2622 Last

Broad through the forepart with a soft round toe, the 2622 is a low profile last that will give an elongated, relaxed look that can be dressed up or down. Shoes built on this last will offer a “relaxed fit” but will still have a nicely tailored look.

2623 Last

A “relaxed fit” with a 3mm footbed allowance allows for men to remove our custom footbed in favor of their choice of orthotics. The 2623 last features a softly tapered toe with a slightly chiseled profile. In spite of a more modern relaxed fit and removable footbed, this last offers a very classic look that should appeal to customers long standing and into the future.

B34 Last

The B34 last was developed as a true 'boot' last, with a wider forefoot for more room up front and a higher toe box for added volume and comfort from a profile perspective.

Handsewn Construction

In this process the upper is created by fitting a single piece of leather around the underside of the last and then stitched to the plug by hand, using needles and waxed thread. A leather midsole and sole are then attached by machine stitching to produce a remarkably comfortable and flexible shoe. True handsewn construction allows the shoes to be recrafted and therefore extends the life of the shoe.

114 Last

Semi-round toe handsewn last with a slightly shorter vamp; fuller across the ball of the foot.

145 Last

Slightly square toe handsewn last with an elongated forepart; used for ae by Allen Edmonds drivers collection.

555 Last

Shorter forepart and round toe with a tighter instep providing a snug fit.

800 Last

A classic, great fitting handsewn last with a sleek but rounded toe and steeper arch; roomier across the ball of the foot with a nice, rounded shape.

2592 Last

A rounded, fuller toe handsewn last. 1/8 inch longer than the 114 last to accommodate a fuller, foam sock liner and heel-to-toe padding.

Cemented Construction

The sole is attached directly to the upper using a special adhesive and without the use of a welt. Cement construction is a superior method for attaching rubber soles used in many casual shoes, such as sneakers. Shoes made using the cement construction method cannot be recrafted.

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It Comes Down to Two

Our last are grouped into two fit categories: Classic and Relaxed. These fit types can help identify shoes that most resemble the contours and nuances of your feet while enhancing the performance and comfort of your shoes.

Classic Fit

Our Classic Fit is considered a “standard fit.” It’s designed to fit your foot snugly while providing all the comfort one expects from Allen Edmonds.

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RELAXED FIT

Our Relaxed Fit is designed for those who prefer a bit more room in their footwear. It also easily accommodates a thicker sock.

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