Handcrafted in the USA, with fine imported materials

Sanford Cap-Toe Derby Dress Shoe

$395.00 $199.00


Item# SF6517

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Additional Information



  • Lace-up dress casual shoes
  • Cap-toe derby with brogue perforations and toe medallion
  • Versatile dress shoe with sophisticated detailing
  • Classic Fit, fits true to size


  • 360º Bench Welt construction for durability and stability
  • CustomCork™ insole naturally molds for a custom fit
  • Single oak leather sole
  • Craft

  • Handcrafted in Port Washington, WI of fine imported materials
  • Built on the welted 97 Last
  • Lined premium leather upper
  • Recraftable
  • Care

    Care Instructions

    STEP 1: Using a damp cloth or sponge, lather our Saddle Soap and apply onto leather to clean and restore its natural oils.

    STEP 2: Moisturize the shoes with our Cream Polish to make them supple and soft, following instructions on the product.

    STEP 3: Condition the shoes with our Speed Polish, protecting them from dirt, rain and snow.

    STEP 4: Take our Heel dressing applicator and apply to the edge of the heel and sole.

    STEP 5: Apply our Leather Lotion as needed for added protection and polish in between cleanings. Use our Horsehair Shine Brush to buff shoes to a desired shine.

    *For camo printed leather, simply rub our Leather Lotion onto print with our Cotton Flannel Polishing Cloth as needed and wipe smudges or dirt away with a damp cloth.

    Classic Fit

    Most people consider a “classic” fit to be a “standard” fit. This fit more closely aligns with the natural shape of your feet.

    U.S. E.U. U.K.
    5 38 4
    5.5 38.5 4.5
    6 39 5.5
    6.5 39.5 6
    7 40 6.5
    7.5 41 7
    8 41.5 7.5
    8.5 42 8
    9 43 8.5
    9.5 43.5 9
    10 44 9.5
    10.5 44.5 10
    11 45 10.5
    11.5 45.5 11
    12 46 11.5
    12.5 47 12
    13 48 12.5
    14 49 13
    15 50 14
    16 50.5 15

    For help getting the perfect fit, we recommend you visit a retail store to get your feet fitted. If you do not have the option to visit one of our stores, you may contact customer service to help you choose the right size.

    Width Available Sizes
    AAAA 8.5-16 Narrow
    AAA 10-12, 13, 14
    AA 10-12, 13, 14
    A 9-12, 13, 14
    B 8-12, 13, 14, 15
    C 8-12, 13, 14, 15
    D 6-13, 14, 15, 16 Medium
    E 6-12, 13, 14
    EE 6-12, 13
    EEE 7-12, 13, 14 Wide
    Ask & Answer
    Sanford Cap-Toe Derby Dress Shoe is rated 4.2 out of 5 by 197.
    Rated 4 out of 5 by from Great Look I bought these because I have been delinquent in sending my other dress shoes to be recrafted and needed something in a hurry for an event. These were on sale, but only available in a D not the C I normally wear. So I took the chance that they might fit acceptably. They feel comfortable, but are apparently a bit too wide as when tightly laced the vamp does not lie completely flat. Hardly noticeable to others perhaps, but I notice. Overall, I am satisfied with the purchase--quality seems great with the exception of some loose stitching on the topline of the back of shoes. I would prefer the topline not have pinking, but otherwise really like the look. My first derbys so I will know better next time to be more attentive to width.
    Date published: 2019-10-24
    Rated 2 out of 5 by from Disappointing I’ve been buying these for 10 years, but this pair is really disappointing. Loose stitching after 2 weeks and the color is not quite walnut. It’s a blend of several colors and impossible to match with a belt.
    Date published: 2019-10-16
    Rated 5 out of 5 by from Subtle pinking The pinked edges are less noticable than anticipated and are a nice subtle detail.
    Date published: 2019-10-10
    Rated 3 out of 5 by from Definitely worth the purchase when on clearance. I had ordered the Sanford Cap-toe Derby Dress Shoe in 9D, in black color. I will say upfront, I think it was definitely worth the purchase, since they were at such a reduced price. With that being said, I would not buy them at full retail; Or, at least the pair that i had received. We'll start with the quality of the leather. I know the black dye used on dress shoes is a bit rougher on the leather, so the quality can't be expected to be quite as nice as something in brown. However, the leather is very rough to the touch. Almost a sandpaper like texture. The color is very dull, with no luster. I'm not sure if something went wrong during the dying process, or if the leather is just incredibly dry and brittle. Knowing leather can go through quite the mistreatment before something like that should happen, I wouldn't surmise that's not the problem. Secondly, There is a one inch, deep scuff or mark on the toe box of the left shoe. It almost looks like something had melted on it. It's unsightly. That right there, I would consider these shoes Seconds. Thirdly, there is loose threading literally everywhere on the shoes. On the back of the right shoe, there is a approximately three inch piece of thread that comes from one end, and then sewn to the other side of the back. Basically a loop of thread hanging off of the shoe. Something you would see in maybe a snagged pair of cheap pants. I don't know how that could even be intentionally done to be honest. It took me about thirty minutes to trim all of the long, loose threads without ruining the integrity of the brand new shoes. I then had to apply a generous amount of leather lotion, several times throughout a few days. Which then I was able to shine them twice. Doing so did help the feel and look of the leather to an extent. But they still look rather dull, and feel a little rough. The fit of the shoe is true to size for length, although they will need a lot of breaking in. More so than any of the other ten pairs of Allen Edmonds I own. The width was a little wide compared to any other 9D size that i own; But, I would assume that's just the last that it's on, so no big deal there. Over all they are cosmetically poor, but the overall construction of the shoe seems to be of good quality thus far. I would definitely recommend this shoe at the $200.00 clearance price, but not the original retail. That's just my honest opinion.
    Date published: 2019-10-01
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    Are these still made with full grain calfskin?

    Asked by: MHS
    Thank you for your interest in our footwear! We are still making the Sanford Cap-Toe Derby with imported full grain calfskin.
    Answered by: Julie
    Date published: 2019-05-13

    I wear orthotics in my shoes which require the removal of the insole. Is this possible to do with your shoes?

    Asked by: BJ70
    I have to wear an Arizona foot brace for a torn posterior ankle tendon and wear a size 11 in an Allen Edmond shoe. I went to DFW shoe store and bought a pair of lace up brown and black Bostonians in 11W and was able to wear them. Takes some practice putting them on without a shoe horn and removing the console, but they work! Wear suits to work and needed dress shoes.
    Answered by: Pete
    Date published: 2019-04-08

    What is the smallest width? Feet are not wide at all. Thank you

    Asked by: Kblaine
    The smallest width is AAA and it is available in size 10-14, the AA (same size range), the A which is available size 9-14
    Answered by: KH816
    Date published: 2019-05-20

    What belt color matches walnut color Sanford Cap toe dress shoe?

    Asked by: AB
    Go for manistee walnut belts. Simply awesome they are.
    Answered by: Sugardaddy
    Date published: 2019-02-13

    I would like to purchase 9.5 EEE Left shoe and 7.5 EEE Right shoe

    In the past I have ordered pair of shoes with different sizes due to polio which causes foot size difference. Left Shoe 9.5 EEE Right Shoe 7.5 EEE Is it still possible to order as noted and how do I place order?
    Asked by: FRANK
    We apologize, at this time we do not offer custom size orders. Feel free to contact us with any additional questions.
    Answered by: CUSTOMER SERVICE
    Date published: 2018-06-25

    What shoes are in stock size 12.5

    Asked by: Pealie
    We recommend using the filter on our website to find what you're looking for. Simply go to 'SHOES' then click on 'Men's Shoes' and filter by the size and width you're interested in. The results will show the shoes available to order in that size. When you click on each shoe you can also select the size/width to see if it's backordered or in-stock. Keep in mind inventory levels change constantly. If you need assistance searching for shoes, please call us at 877.817.7615.
    Answered by: CUSTOMER SERVICE
    Date published: 2017-12-01

    Does the Sanford have a poron insole / cushioning ?

    Asked by: Anonymous
    Th Sanford style is constructed with our traditional leather and cork layer footbed that conforms to the shape of your feet. It does not have a Poron insole. Feel free to contact us with any additional questions.
    Answered by: CUSTOMER SERVICE
    Date published: 2017-01-26

    Leather Type

    Are these calfskin leather shoes? If not are these full grain or corrected grain?
    Asked by: RG
    Thank you for your inquiry. These are full grain calfskin leather. If you have any other questions, please contact us.
    Answered by: CUSTOMER SERVICE
    Date published: 2016-11-30

    What color edge & heel dressing for sanford cap toe derby in walnut

    Some said neutral - but that has no pigment. Use brown or chile?
    Asked by: Anonymous
    Thank you for your inquiry. For the Sanford in Walnut, we would recommend Chili Heel and Sole Edge Dressing.
    Answered by: CUSTOMER SERVICE
    Date published: 2016-11-29

    Is this shoe recraftable?

    On the description, the shoe is said to be refraftable. When you compare it to another shoe, it says that it is not recraftable. Which is correct?
    Asked by: Steven0407
    They are retractable
    Answered by: DwayneO84
    Date published: 2016-12-28
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