Men's Derby Shoes

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The derby is defined by its open lacing: the eyelet facings are stitched on top of the vamp rather than beneath it, so the shoe opens wide and adjusts to the foot. That construction gives the derby a more relaxed character than the oxford and a fit that accommodates higher insteps and wider feet. Allen Edmonds has handcrafted men's dress shoes in Port Washington, Wisconsin since 1922, and applies the same welted construction to its derby styles.

Goodyear and Bench Welt Construction, Handcrafted in Port Washington

Most Allen Edmonds derby shoes are built on welted construction, either Goodyear welt or hand-welted bench welt, stitching the upper, welt, and sole together. That welt is what lets a worn pair be resoled and recrafted instead of replaced. Uppers are cut from premium European calfskin, supple Italian deerskin and suede, or shell cordovan from Chicago's Horween® tannery, and most styles sit over CustomCork™ insoles that mold to the foot with wear. For a more casual, flexible feel, select derby styles trade the leather sole for lightweight rubber or XL Extralight® soles, and select styles come in multiple widths.

What is the difference between a derby and an oxford?

The difference is the lacing. A derby uses open lacing, with the eyelet facings stitched on top of the vamp so the shoe opens wide; an oxford uses closed lacing sewn underneath. This makes the derby slightly less formal and easier to fit over a high instep.

Are derby shoes formal enough to wear with a suit?

Yes. A plain-toe derby in smooth, dark calfskin reads as business-appropriate and pairs well with a suit, while brogued or lighter-colored styles lean smart casual. The leather and detailing set the formality, not the open lacing alone.

Can Allen Edmonds derby shoes be recrafted?

Many can. Allen Edmonds derby styles built on Goodyear or bench welt construction can be resoled and recrafted by craftsmen in Port Washington rather than retired. Check the product page to confirm recrafting on a specific style.