How to Care for Your Suede and Leather Shoes

A well-crafted pair of leather dress shoes can last for decades with the right care. Regular attention to cleaning, conditioning, and polishing preserves the leather and protects the finish that gives dress shoes their character.


How to Care for Leather Shoes

We believe a great pair of shoes or boots is always a solid long-term investment. To keep your favorite lather shoes in top form for years or even decades to come, use our 4-Step Shoe Care Process and these essential products.

1. Cleaning Leather Shoes

Begin your leather shoe care routine with a clean surface. Dirt and debris left on leather will work into the grain over time, drying it out and dulling the finish.

 

Start by wiping down the entire upper with a clean cloth dampened with warm water. This removes surface dust, salt residue, and light scuffs. Wipe away any excess moisture with the dry side of the cloth before moving on.

 

Deep Cleaning with Saddle Soap

For stains or buildup that a damp cloth won't remove, apply Saddle Soap. Saddle soap lifts embedded dirt while restoring the leather's natural oils, so it cleans and conditions in a single step.

 

To apply, wrap a Cotton Flannel Polishing Cloth around your fingers and dab a small amount of saddle soap onto the cloth. A small amount is all you need. Rub in gentle circular motions across the entire leather upper, then wipe off any excess soap residue with a clean section of the cloth.

 

 

2. Polishing Leather Shoes

Polishing restores the color and luster that leather loses through regular wear. Allen Edmonds recommends using cream polish and wax polish together for the most refined result. Cream polish renews color across the entire upper, while wax polish adds a focused shine to the toe.

 

Applying Cream Polish

Uncap your Cream Polish and gently tap a Horsehair Dauber into the polish. You only need enough to cover the edges of the bristles. Using gentle circular motions, apply the cream polish to the entire leather upper. Cream polish penetrates the leather to renew color and add moisture, not just coat the surface.

 

Building a Toe Shine with Wax Polish

Wax polish is applied only to the toe area for a focused shine and an added layer of surface protection. Use a clean cloth wrapped around your fingers and gently dab the carnauba wax polish onto the toe.

 

After applying the wax, use a Horsehair Shine Brush with quick, light strokes across the toe area. Barely rub the edges of the bristles against the leather. The friction creates just enough heat to distribute the wax evenly and bring up a smooth, lasting shine.

 

3. Dressing Leather Heels and Soles

The heels and sole edges of leather dress shoes show wear first. Scuffs and color loss are most visible here, especially on lighter leathers.

 

Heel Dressing restores depth of color along the heel and sole edge, renewing that clean, finished appearance. Apply heel dressing directly to the heel stack and sole edge using the built-in sponge tip applicator. For shoes with leather soles, heel dressing can also be applied across the full sole surface. Wipe off any excess with a cloth before wearing.

 

This is one of the quickest ways to refresh the look of dress shoes between full polish sessions.

 

4. Protecting and Conditioning Leather Shoes

Leather is a natural material that dries out over time. Without regular conditioning, the surface will eventually crack and stiffen. Protection against moisture matters just as much. Water damage remains one of the most common causes of premature wear in leather dress shoes.

 

Conditioning with Leather Lotion

Leather Lotion keeps leather uppers soft and supple. Dispense a small amount directly onto a clean cloth and apply it to the entire leather upper. Once the lotion is evenly distributed, wipe off any excess. Regular conditioning prevents the drying and cracking that shortens the life of leather footwear.

 

Applying Water Protector

As a final step, spray Water Protector over the leather uppers. This creates a barrier against moisture and staining without affecting the look or breathability of the leather. Allow the protector to dry fully before wearing.


How to Care for Suede Shoes

Suede has a reputation for being difficult to maintain, but the care process is actually simpler than smooth leather. No polishing is required. The focus is on brushing, protecting the nap, and guarding against moisture.

 

Follow these three steps to keep your suede footwear in good condition.

1. Cleaning Suede Shoes

Start by wiping down the suede upper with a clean, dry cloth to remove loose surface dust. Then brush the entire upper with a Suede Long Handle Brush, using the stiff wire bristles to comb out the nap and lift embedded dirt.

Brush against the grain of the suede. This is the most important step. Brushing against the grain pulls dirt out of the fibers while maintaining the texture and feel of the material. For deeper stains or scuffs, use the brush and eraser bar included in the Suede and Nubuck Cleaning System to work out stubborn marks.

 

2. Dressing Suede Heels and Soles

Just like smooth leather shoes, suede footwear benefits from Heel Dressing on the heel stack and sole edge. Apply using the sponge tip applicator and wipe off any excess before wearing.

 

3. Protecting Suede from Moisture

Suede is more vulnerable to water damage than smooth leather. Spray Suede Protector from 10 to 12 inches away, distributing the spray evenly across the entire suede upper. This protective layer repels water and stains, guarding the nap without changing the look or feel of the material. Reapply periodically, especially after cleaning.


DID YOU KNOW?

 

Getting into an easy, five-minute care ritual at the end of your day is the best way to keep your footwear looking new. Apply our Speed Polish and then go over the shoes with a few passes of the Horsehair Dauber and Polishing Cloth. Think of it as a quick wax for your car that ensures you’ll need deep polishes less often.


Use Cedar Shoe Trees

Shoe trees help hold the shoe's intended shape. Without a shoe tree, leather uppers develop creases that deepen with each wear, eventually cracking the surface.

 

Allen Edmonds shoe trees are shaped to match the signature lasts used in our construction process. Each pair is made from sustainably harvested American hardwood cedar, a material chosen for two reasons. Cedar absorbs the moisture that accumulates inside footwear throughout the day, and its natural oils help neutralize odor.